A Journey to Tobermory

Some of my favourite memories from the summer of 2009 involve hiking around the Bruce Peninsula. In August, Jade and I went hiking through several towns and provincial parks through the rustic northern landmass. During our two-day trip, we enjoyed an incredible variety of scenery. Although the hike was short by my standards (we covered no more than thirty kilometers over two days) it was one of my most memorable hiking trips thus far.

Jade and I start our four-hour drive on a sunny Thursday morning. Although we nearly get lost on the poorly-marked country roads of Simcoe County, we still manage to make great time and pass through Owen Sound before noon. We take a break in Wiarton, an elegant small town located along Lake Huron’s Colpoy’s Bay. The village, founded in the 1850s, features a number of rustic storefronts centralized along Berford Street. Wiarton is perhaps best known for Wiarton Willie, an albino groundhog who participates in the annual Groundhog Day festival. A large, solemn Willie statue stands in the middle of a beautiful park that runs along the shoreline of Lake Huron.

Continuing north, we drive along the seemingly endless Highway 6 and arrive in Tobermory after another hour. The tiny community is localized along a small bay that flows into Lake Huron. Numerous vessels, ranging from small sailboats to modest yachts, are located in the harbor. Tobermory probably has the largest number of boat & fishing supply stores per-capita in Ontario. The town is surprisingly small and, given that Jade and I aren’t looking for boat supplies, there doesn’t seem to be much to do. Tobermory is very isolated; Lion’s Head, the nearest community, is almost 50 kilometers away, and is connected by a single country road that bisects the vast cedar forest of the Bruce Peninsula. One could argue that Tobermory’s remoteness and simplicity is part of its appeal (a few people in town are wearing shirts that say “Gone to Tobermory, back whenever”).

In the early afternoon we drive to Bruce Peninsula National Park, located a few kilometers south of Tobermory. The Bruce is one of the largest and most diverse parks in Ontario. The government has provided Park status to a significant portion of the northern edge of the peninsula. The park is atypical because it features cedar forests, which is a rarity in southern Ontario. Jade and I hike along the Cyprus Lake trail and circle around a large, placid pond, which stands out like an oasis in the vast forest. The trail boasts great variety in scenery; there are peaceful brooks and jagged rocky formations standing five meters high (which I successfully climb).

After an hour of hiking, we arrive at the rocky edge of the Niagara Escarpment. Jade and I stand at the top of the rugged plateau; the view is breathtaking. The endless, clear Lake Huron extend towards the horizon. Beneath us, the escarpment plunges 10 meters downwards. Riskily, I decide to climb down the side of the bluff. Given that the escarpment is a rocky landform, there are many natural grips, which makes the descent easier. It takes less than five minutes for me to climb down and stand at sea level.

Although it takes me half an hour to convince her, Jade finally climbs down the rocky edge of the Niagara Escarpment. We walk along the slippery, narrow rocks and head into “The Grotto”, a large cave partially submerged in water. The Grotto provides shelter from the hot sun and is filled with eerily blue, placid, ice-cold water. Large rocks jut out from the ground and stalactites hang overhead. We take off our shoes and socks and dip our feet into the chilly pool. Although we’re able to walk in ankle-deep water through most of the cave, there’s an ominous, dark pool deeper inside the cave.

After cooling off in the Grotto, we climb back to the top of the escarpment. Although the sun is slowly sinking along the horizon, we decide to venture out even further. We walk along a seemingly endless section of the coastline consisting of little more than jagged rocks. The harsh, rugged terrain slows our pace to a crawl. (We run into a woman hiking across this inhospitable terrain, in the opposite direction; it turns out that’s she another accountant. What a bizarre place to run into a fellow number-cruncher). We rest for a few minutes at the far end of the beach, at the foot of a large bluff. Jade tries to teach me how to make a rock skip over water; I lack this talent.

While Jade rests, I quickly jog along the dark, ominous trail leading up the side of the bluff. The footpath is narrow, bumpy trail marked with faint chalk. The trail is quite dark, as the thick trees block most of the light from the setting sun. However, I make it to the bluff’s plateau and enjoy another great view of the placid Lake Huron from high atop the Niagara Escarpment. I jog back down the hill. After a quick rest, we make the long hike back to the parking lot, and drive back to Tobermory.

The next morning, we walk to the Tobermory waterfront and take a glass-bottom cruise through Fathom Five National Marine Park. The park is primarily aquatic, though it also contains several small islands. The boat takes us on a tour of the many shipwrecks in the shallow Georgian Bay. We get great views of many small islands from the top of the boat.

After a half hour cruise, the boat drops us off at Flowerpot Island. The island is a remote, uninhabited landmass located five kilometers northeast of Tobermory. The terrain is hostile; a thick, largely unexplored cedar forest occupies the center of the island and an unfriendly rocky shoreline encircles the terrain. Flowerpot Island is so-named because of two large rock formations along its eastern cost. Two rocky towers emerge from the rocky shoreline, and tower above the surrounding rocky shoals. Over hundreds of years, water has eroded the bases of the towers, causing them to look like large flowerpots. Small plants grow from the top of the natural structures. The flowerpots are among the most unique and stunning natural landmarks in Ontario.

We spend the rest of the afternoon hiking around the island. Initially, we follow the trail around the island’s coastline; this section is picturesque and relaxing. However, the hike becomes arduous as we curve inwards and bisect the island’s dense, hilly interior. The last few kilometers of the trail offer loose rocks, exotic vegetation and aggressive insects. We climb over small hills, trip over loose stones, and leap over narrow ravines. We try to explore off-path, but the vegetation is so dense we need to turn back after a dozen meters.

We take the boat back to Tobermory and drive south to Sauble Beach, a small town located along the coast of Lake Huron. The west side of town features a beautiful white sand beach that spans seven kilometers, bookended by the waterfalls in the north and an oak forest to the south. We see teenagers, young families and old couples sharing the beach; there’s plenty of waterfront to go around, especially compared to the crowded and relatively overrated Wasaga Beach. As the sun sets, it peaks from behind the clouds, casting unique patterns over the wavy lake. We take off our shoes and socks and walk, ankle deep, into Lake Huron. After two days of hiking, our feet feel rejuvenated by the soft, cool sand. As the sun rests on the horizon, we make the long drive back to Toronto.

The Tobermory trip ranks as one of my all-time favourite hiking trips, along with the 2007 Holland Land Keswick – Jackson Point trek and the 2008 Brampton – Erin – Orangeville marathon. These trips all combined great company, beautiful and varied scenery, and challenging distances and terrain. I always look forward to the next hike.